This isn't normal. The ground itself is shaking. Not the stand - I'm not in the stand – I'm on solid earth and it's shaking. If you've...

The huge tifo going up is the sign I’ve been waiting for. Underneath it, I’d been told, the ultras would right now be changing clothes...

Thick fog crawls around the stadium. A fog that dampens clothes, that tastes of the brine it's born in from the sea. One player after...